If you could peek into refrigerators across America, there's a good chance you'd find a carton of yogurt in many of them.

Why? Because not only is the dairy product the perfect quick breakfast or snack food, it has never been more popular. Last year, Americans consumed $2.5 billion in yogurt--more than double a decade ago.

The appeal of yogurt goes beyond convenience. Some believe the live cultures used to turn milk into yogurt provide potential health benefits such as bolstering the immune system, preventing gastrointestinal infections and easing arthritis. While these and other claims are still being researched, we do know that yogurt is a great source of calcium and protein, as well as phosphorus, vitamin [B.sub.12] and magnesium.

The problem with eating plain yogurt, even die-hard fans will admit, is that it's not that great on its own. To remedy this, yogurt producers have stocked supermarket shelves with a multitude of sweet but caloric treats such as candy-topped sundaes and puddinglike desserts. So the question is, how can you reap yogurt's benefits and still keep your waistline from expanding as fast as the indulgent selections in the dairy case? Use plain yogurt as a kitchen staple. Its custardlike quality imparts a creamy, satisfying texture to many dishes, including soups, stews, salads and baked goods. And if you use low-fat and nonfat varieties, you add full-fat flavor without the full-fat calories.

So if you're trying to reach (or stay at) a healthy weight and watch sugar or carbs, incorporate plain yogurt into your cooking and think of its dessertlike counterparts as an occasional indulgence.