WINE, WITH ITS HEADY AROMAS AND COMPLEX FLAVORS, can transform everyday meals into special occasions. More of us are discovering its allure and delight. We're trying different kinds, visiting vineyard regions and no longer waiting for celebrations to pop the cork. And though it's easy to become intimidated by the foreign words and snobbery associated with wine, don't let them get in the way of your pleasure. To help you start (or move to the next level), let's get right to the basics--how to select wine for your meal or party, how to open and serve it, and how to enjoy its many nuances.

TIPS FROM A WINE-CELLAR MASTER

Tonya Hopkins, a food writer, talked with Eric White, who maintains cellars for wineries, restaurants and collectors.

Q: How can a beginner learn to appreciate wine?

A: Sweet wines can make an enjoyable start. But to really get into wine, it's important to engage all the senses. How vibrant is its color? Is its aroma floral, fruity of spicy? How does it feel going down? Is it silky-smooth, or is there texture? And you get much more from sipping than simply drinking wine.

Q: Are older wines always better?

A: Only if they're from regions of the world that have the best grapes, soil and climate for producing wine that can age. These wines are usually more expensive and of high quality. Wine that doesn't age well may end up tasting like vinegar. But many wines are meant for drinking while they're young. Fresh, crisp whites like sauvignon blanc, as well as champagne and other sparkling wines, are best used within six months to a year.

Q: What does it mean to "let a wine breathe"?

A: When the cork is removed from the bottle and the wine is exposed to air, the wine begins to aerate. When it's poured into a glass, it takes on even more air. Some believe that breathing allows wines to soften (especially younger red wines with high tannins). But too much exposure (several hours) can diminish the flavor and structure.

Q: Is it true that all red wines should be served at room temperature and not chilled?

A: Cold masks much of the flavor and aroma of red wine, so it's best to serve it at the temperature of a cool room. Young, simple reds, like Beaujolais, may benefit from a 15-minute chi]l in the refrigerator. Serve white wines chilled but not super cold.

Q: What's the best way to store wine?