Many philosophies strive for balance. Taoism seeks it through a harmonious interaction of opposites, based on the concepts of yin, the feminine, passive force in nature--cold, dark, and wet--and yang, the masculine principle, hot, light, and dry. When yin and yang are in perfect balance, in a meal as in other aspects of life, harmony prevails--to say nothing of good health and happiness.

Yin foods, such as lettuce, crab, cucumber, tofu, and bean sprouts, possess cooling and soothing power. Yang foods--chicken, lamb, chocolate, and butter, for instance--contain warmth and energy. Many foods, however, combine both principles. Furthermore, the nature of any food can be altered by the way it is cooked and seasoned: Steaming, poaching, and boiling are yin methods, while stir-frying, deep-frying, and roasting are yang techniques; ginger, garlic, and chili contribute hot, yang influences. The right combination of yin and yang is believed to restore natural balance to the body.

Chinese New Year, an optimal time to restore one's balance, begins on February 12. To celebrate the Year of the Horse, we offer a menu in which ingredients and cooking styles are balanced in yin-yang harmony The recipes are adapted from The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen: Classic Family Recipes for Celebration and Healing (Simon & Schuster, New York, 1999; $27.50; www.simonsays.com). Author Grace Young learned about the yin-yang principles of food as she was growing up in a traditional Chinese family in San Francisco. The dishes are straightforward home cooking from her family's own repertoire and are easy to integrate into your own celebration.

Hot-and-Sour Soup (Shoon Lat Tong)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 50 minutes

NOTES: Young's parents make their own broth with chicken, water, and fresh ginger, but canned chicken broth simmered with fresh ginger works well too. If cloud ears and lily buds are unavailable, substitute 1 cup finely shredded cabbage and 1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms and skip step 1; add cabbage and mushrooms to broth in step 4. You can prepare the soup through step 4 up to 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and chill. Reheat, covered, over high heat, then continue with step 5.

MAKES: 6 servings

[1/3] cup dried cloud ears ([1/2] oz.), optional (see notes)

[1/3] cup dried lily buds (3/4 oz.), optional (see notes)

8 ounces firm tofu

4 ounces boned pork butt or loin, fat trimmed

[1/2] cup canned sliced bamboo shoots

1[1/2] quarts fat-skimmed chicken broth (see notes)