Try the trendy spirit in a pie; spike a sauce for ribs

Tequila has become a tony tipple, with premium bottles crowding the shelves behind bars and along liquor store aisles. To be called tequila, the product must contain at least 51 percent blue agave juice. But that's where simple definitions end. Generally, premium tequilas are made from 100 percent blue agave juice, but not always; price is an indication.

There are four varieties of tequila. Plata (silver, also called blanco, or white) and oro (gold, which may have caramel coloring or sweetener added) are typically unaged; silver has the cleaner agave flavor. Reposado (literally, peaceful) has aged a minimum of three months in oak barrels. Anejo (aged) has spent a minimum of one year on oak. The more time a tequila spends on oak, the more complex and woodsy its flavor-and the more expensive it usually is-so premium versions tend to fall into the last two categories. But you can find premium silver tequilas too.

Regardless of its age or agave content, tequila isn't just for margaritas (or shots); it adds an intriguing nip to many dishes, from entrees to desserts. And though the nuances of premium brands do come through in cooking, the following recipes also work well with a silver or gold tequila.

Frozen Margarita Pie

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes, plus 3 hours to freeze

NOTES: Use a silver tequila.

MAKES: 8 servings

11/2, cups (3 1/2 oz.) lightly packed white marshmallows

2/3 cup half-and-half (light cream)

1 teaspoon grated lime peel

1/4 cup lime juice

1/4 cup tequila (see notes)

20 thin chocolate wafer cookies (about 2 in. wide; 5 oz. total)

2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

1 cup whipping cream

11/2 tablespoons sugar

1. In a 3- to 4-quart pan over medium heat, stir marshmallows with half-and-half until melted, about 5 minutes.

2. Nest pan in ice water; stir often until cool, about 3 minutes. Add lime peel, lime juice, and tequila; stir occasionally until cold, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. In a food processor, whirl cookies until finely ground. Add butter and whirl until mixed. Press cookie mixture evenly over bottom and halfway up sides of a 9-inch cake pan with removable rim.

4. In a bowl with a mixer on high speed, whip cream with sugar until it holds soft peaks. Fold in marshmallow mixture, blending well.