Dining With Dennis R. Getto

Cajun and Mexican dishes make popular Fishbone's a spicy catch

By DENNIS R. GETTO

Journal Sentinel restaurant critic

Friday, October 20, 2000

If I had to pick one thing that I most liked about the new Fishbone's restaurant, it would have to be the chef's way with tomatillos.

Tomatillos are small, green cousins of tomatoes that give most Mexican green salsas their zip. And when they contribute their tangy flavor to dishes such as braised pork loin with white beans ($9.95 small, $14.95 large) or fresh halibut ($18.95), the result is pure magic.

The man behind those dishes -- and all the others at Fishbone's -- is chef Jesse Souza, who's originally from California. And while the new restaurant bills itself as "Cajun and Creole," Souza often weaves elements of Mexican and Pacific Rim cooking into the menu.

In case you've missed it, Fishbone's is one of the hottest new restaurants in western Waukesha County, an area that's seen tremendous growth in the last few years. The man behind it is owner Dennis Sobczak, who's no stranger to Cajun food -- he formerly worked at Heaven City and Crawdaddy's.

But it was at Louise's Trattoria, Sobczak's most recent employer, where he met Souza. The two decided to team up, opening Fishbone's in a building that formerly housed a bar called Slipper's.

A bustling scene

After extensive remodeling, Fishbone's opened June 19. In the months since, the new 80-seat restaurant has become so popular that its parking lot overflows with cars on Friday and Saturday nights.

It's a lively place. Several large art pieces by Muskego artist Steve Draeger make the interior look as if it were Mardi Gras time, and the restaurant's front bar attracts a bustling crowd. When things at Fishbone's really get cooking, the noise level can make carrying on a conversation challenging.

That seemed a small price to pay for some very good food. Of the six entrees sampled in two visits, those two tomatillo-tinged dishes impressed me most. The pork loin, braised with white beans and bacon, proved to be a modern interpretation of a classic Mexican stew. Rich and hearty, it was a perfect, filling, fall dish.

Fresh, white and flaky, the halibut also took to the tomatillos well. Cooked down to a light green sauce, those little green fruits added a citrus-like flavor to the boneless fillet. A saute of carrots, zucchini, yellow squash and celery added color and contrast.